Nov. 7th, 2005

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Went surfing yesterday, which was fab and fun. I felt the need to put myself at the mercy of the ocean and surrender the need to control my environment. It was super beneficial. But I digress.

I went surfing at La Jolla shores, a mellow beach break popular with longboarders and more mellow surfers. It just doesn't have the kind of waves you could shred. It's physics, with its hard intractable laws that cannae be changed by man nor board. However, every time I've surfed there has always been at least one guy on a shortboard trying to catch every wave, pumping the board, cutting back, trying to 180. They always fail, miserably, and fall off the board usually to watch someone on a 10 foot tree glide along the same wave long enough to take a walk down to the nose.

Yesterday was no different. And after the umpteenth time of seeing Mister Hair Gel Short Board Aggro Man try to 180, I wanted to shake him. I wanted to ask him why, if he surfs this way, does he come to La Jolla shores? And if he must come to La Jolla shores, why does he not walk a half mile up the beach to where the pier is and surf there? 'Cause, yeah it's a walk but at least it's not a total beach break. The waves are always better up there for short boards. He could cut back and shred to his heart's delight and not look like a total kook. 'Cause buddy, you may think you're cool but the sad truth is you look like a kook. And if I think you look like a kook; well, let's just say you'd better stop and check yourself. Dude.

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